Final Assembly and Wiring
We are now ready to do the final assembly and wiring. First attach the turntable assembly to the chassis assembly using four 8-32 bolts as shown below:
Then zip tie the Battery to the underside of the robot as shown below:
Next we are going to make the cable that will connect the main Arduino Board to the Auxiliary Arduino board. Take a 20 cm section of five wire male to male connectors and insert each end into a 1×5 housing. Since the order of the wires are different for the two connectors, care must be taken to get them in the correct order.
The easiest way to do that is to label the connections on each end, 4RVG5 for the Auxiliary Arduino Board and R45GV for the main Arduino Board. Then match up the wires correctly as shown above. The actual colors of the wires you use doesn’t matter as long as they are connected in the correct order on each side.
Now use this cable to connect the Arduino Board to the Auxiliary Arduino Board as shown below:
Now route the four Shooter Motor encoder wires to the main Arduino Board and cut them to an appropriate length. Then crimp male connectors onto the Encoder A, Encoder VCC, and Encoder GND wires and insert them into one side of a 2×3 housing as shown below:
Now route the cable for the Feeder Motor to the left Motor Controller. Cut the red and black power wires to the appropriate length and connect them to the left Motor Controller as shown below:
Then route the four Feeder Motor encoder wires to the main Arduino Board and cut them to an appropriate length. Then crimp male connectors onto the Encoder A, Encoder VCC, and Encoder GND wires and insert them into the other side of the 2×3 housing as shown below:
Then route the power wires for the LED over to the left Motor Controller and connect them as shown below. Make sure that you connect them with the proper polarity.
Next, mount the Turntable Motor to the Turntable Motor Mount using two M3 screws and attach the Timing Belt Pully to the shaft using the two set screws. Then mount the Turntable Motor Mount to the Turntable Bottom Plate using two 8-32 bolts, and loop the Timing Belt around the pully, as shown below. You should slide the Turntable Motor Mount to tighten the belt. The belt should be snug, but not too tight. It should be loose enough that, if you turn the turntable by hand, the belt will slip on the pully.
Then attach the Turntable Motor power wires to the Motor Controller as shown below:
Next take the loose end of the Pi Camera Cable and tape a piece of duct tape on the end as shown to protect it:
Then temporarily remove the Arduino Board and connect the Camera Cable to the Raspberry Pi as shown:
Then re-attach the Arduino Board:
Now take a four wire 20 cm male to female jumper and a three wire 20 cm male to female jumper and insert the male end of both jumpers into a 1×7 housing. Then insert the female end of the four wire jumper into a 1×4 housing and the female end of the three wire jumper into a 1×3 housing as shown below:
Next insert the 2×3 encoder connector and the 1×7 jumper connector into the Arduino Board. Make sure that you orient the connectors as shown below:
Now insert the four wire connector into the Motor Controller on the right and the three wire connector into the Motor Controller on the left. Once again, pay attention to the orientation of the connectors as shown below:
Now solder the other ends to the limit switches as shown:
Then attach the 2×4 limit switch connector to the Arduino Board as shown:
Now assemble the shooter Flywheel by gluing the Flywheel Cap to the Flywheel. When the glue has dried, attach two 7/8″ ID, 1-1/8″ OD, 1/8″ width O-Rings as shown below:
Now attach the Flywheel to the Shooter Motor centered as shown below. You want a snug fit. Depending on your 3D printer you may find that the fit is too snug (i.e. you cannot get it on to the motor spindle), or too loose. If it is too snug, drill the hole in the Flywheel with a 2 mm drill. If it is too loose you can add just a drop of glue from a hot glue gun and then immediately push the Flywheel onto the spindle. I caution you against using a more permanent glue (such as super glue) as that will make it impossible to remove the Flywheel later if you find the need. The hot glue will hold well enough and will still allow you to remove the Flywheel later.
The robot is now complete and ready for programming.